The choice has been made and the next step is to draw a first pattern to try it out. Lets start with the cup since this is the most important piece. Drawing with my system means using a basic pattern with vertical coupe to be sure all proportions will always stay intact. By tracing and transforming this pattern any coupe I want can be obtained. For this design I want the coupe to be horizontal for a more balconnet style bra. So I traced the basic pattern once for the lower cup and once again for the upper cup.
Drawing a good pattern always takes time, can’t rush things. It involves a lot of erasing too, so I usually start of with pale thin lines. And just draw and erase, draw and erase to find the ultimate balance.
When it finally looked promising I narrowed the top line to make it fitt E-F-G cups and drew an extra separation line in the lower cup. This will allow the breast to rest down a bit, we don’t want it to end up around the chin, don’t we? The extra strap at midfront could be added as well and it finally seems good to go for a first quick test.
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