For test bras I always use a mix of remnants because it’s such a waste to just throw them out. Usually in a light colour so during fitting I can write on it what has to be adjusted. But the fitting band doesn’t need any adjusting or writing, it’s just a basic design which has been used many times before. So let’s make this at least a bit colourfull!
It’s gonna be shades of green this time. With a plain white lining for the front. I always cut these along with the fabric so they will be exactly the same.
Do you notice that sweet little ancient flatiron which I use to keep the bigger pattern pieces in place? Pinning always moves the fabric a bit, that’s why I only use these for small parts. Those small size flatirons are perfect for the task at hand and are very much appropriate for sewing. Through the years I’ve collected a nice collection, I’m a bit of a collector junkie I’m afraid, one never seems enough for me. When I need something I tend to buy several versions : scissors – rotary cutters – rulers, you name it and have at least 3 or more different ones. And a row of lovely old and sometimes a bit rusty flatirons (they don’t touch the fabric so some spots of rust won’t hurt)
Before sewing I usually lay out the fabrics I’ve cut in the position they will end up. This way I will know nothing is forgotten and it makes it easier to astablish the best order of sewing. Also I add the trims I will need because layed out in position it gives a good overview of the quantities needed. And of course there’s always a load of trimming remnants as well to choose from. For tests they don’t have to match, you might notice for the closure the hooks don’t match the eyes colour. So even those useless parts don’t go to waste ..
Everything is sewn together as in a regular bra with an exception for the wire casing. Normally first the cups will go in and after that the wire casing. But a fitting bra doesn’t have fixed cups yet. The wire casing is measured carefully and topstiched on the fabric leaving the seam allowance sticking out. This way cups can be added and removed easily by sewing them at the seam allowance. I’ve stitched the wire casing at the inside of the bra but it might just as well go on the outside. Sometimes this might come handy because it’s easier to change underwires while somebody is wearing the test bra.
All finished and ready to go, I can add this size to my collection of fitting bands. Told you I’m a true collector .. Just kidding, as a designer I do need several sizes of these. Lots of my customers who make custom fitt bras for others have several sizes fitting bands as well, it really makes the job a lot easier. In case you wonder how this would look like on a body I’ve taken a picture for you on a mannequin. She doesn’t have the right size of course but it will give some kind of impression. Looks bit odd, doesn’t it
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