Now the moment of truth has come; the cups have to be sewn and added to the fitting band. I always make the cups of remnants in a light colour, preferably white. This way I can write corrections on the fabric during the fitting. For the straps midfront was just enough left over of the green fabric I used for the fitting band, I cut lining at the back as well.
Adding these straps turned out to be quite challenge. I tried 2 different options; for the left cup I just sew the seams at both side and turned it inside out. Nice hidden seams and the strap completely loose from the cup. For the right cup I sew one seam on top of the cup first.
Attached to the cup the strap should hold shape better but adding the green top layer was not an easy task. With a lot of folding and wiggling I managed to squeeze the green fabric in as well and I could even blindstich the opposite seam. But it will be kind of difficult to explane in the manual how to do this. That’s always one of the major issues in developing a sewing pattern; the process has to be understandable for untrained sewers as well. Many lovely designs didn’t make it till the end for this reason.
I sew folding elastic at the armpits too and let it stick out another 15cm or so. Once this was done I could attache the straps along the underwire seam of the cup. Now I pinned + stitched the cups at the rounding of the fitting band. No need to finish of the seams nicely, the cups will be removed again no matter what. The folding elastic, midfront straps and shoulder straps all came together in a ring where they can be adjusted to the right length.
The fitting itself was a bit difficult as well. In an ideal world there would be at least 5 women wearing this bra size to try it on. Women with very different types of body that is. This would provide the best chance of developing a bra which would fitt most women. But we don’t live in a perfect world and I only had one woman to test on.
Still some adjustmants will have to be made; top edge of the cup must be even more narrow and midfront straps are too high up. Also I’m not completely sure about the shape of the midfront straps. I marked an alternative in red on the cup and I will sleep over it. Hmm. sleep … that sounds very tempting right now!
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