Step 9 : drawing and adding a new adjusted cup

Not only some adjustments were needed in the cup itself, I was tempted to do some playing around with the midfront strap as well. But first things first; a new drawing of the upper cup and some touches of extra smoothness in the undercup.

The midfront strap was lowered a bit from the point of meeting the elastic strap and at the cup I also gave it some more length.On paper it looked good.

A new idea had popped up in the meantime and I just added this on the drawing since the cup itself would stay the same. Saves time and effort, i’ve become really economic through the years …

cuptest3 patroon

It seemed a good idea to make a trial as well with extra straps at both sides of the cup. It would make the whole strap idea more bold and better support of the breast. So that would be the red lines in the drawing, the blue line is for the adjusted strap.

Another idea I wanted to try is making the strap out of scalloped lace. See how this would look and what the sewing would bring in terms of difficulties. I even had a remnant in almost the same green, had to dig in a large box for quite a while to find it though. Talking about being so economic …

cuptest3 layout

Just used the same blue lining as before since I have a very large piece which became useless due to discolouring. But ideal for tests!

I do prefer to have the strap as a loose piece. By sewing it on the cup it seems like a part of the cup while I want it to clearly be a sort of strap. So the bottom seam could be blind but with the scallops being there the top seam had to be sewn from the outside.

cuptest3 halfsewn

I replaced the left cup (seen from the person itself of course) from the fitting band with the new one and did another fitting session. With a real person, the picture is just with the doll because the doll won’t mind to be seen on the internet this way.

It looked nice, like a butterfly between the breast. Only … this was not what I was after. I guess my instinct was right while drawing the pattern, straps at both sides of the cup would be closer to the design idea.

It would also avoid a problem which occured in the fitting session, the armpit was pushing away the top edge of the cup. The connection with only elastic didn’t do the job. Every step makes things more clear. It’s always worth taking the time for trial and error!

cuptest3 doll

 

 

For an overview of all the Merckwaerdigh internet activities take a look at www.merckwaerdigh.nl

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