The butterfly straps being rejected it’s time to try the double strap cup. Gracefully curved strap pieces at each side of the cup. Can’t wait …With these design projects it’s a good idea to think a few steps ahead before cutting and sewing. So I pictured the proces in my mind before even getting the fabric out. And I realized It would be a problem to add a ‘blind’ piece at the armpit because this would leave the armpit in the cup itself hanging loose. It could only be done when finishing the strap and cup together with elastic trim. For a version with scalloped lace this would be fine and I want to add a lace alternative in the pattern anyway. But made with plain fabric would not be so nice this way.
The best solution for this would be dropping the upper edge to a strapless design. Back to drawing again …
Once the line was dropped the side part turned out to narrow, it should be approx the same as in the front. Usually this would mean making a whole new drawing but I managed to change it in the same old drawing. I did remeasure all the lines since this cheating can get a bit sloppy in accurateness.
Got all the remnants together again for another test. It’s become sort of a sport for me to use the smallest piece available, like making a puzzle. The red fabric just fitted and would give a good contrast as well.
During sewing the trick is to keep every piece stuffed with pins. Stretch fabrics always tend to deform due to the spandex / lycra and needs to be controlled severely. when sewing the real deal I like to use spray glue, the temporarely type. But that takes a lot of time carefully draping the fabrics together so for a test I just pin and pin and pin.
Once sewing the cup was done it seemed quite nice, this strong contrast and all. This was indeed more or less what I had in mind. So hopefully the cup being strapless all of a sudden wouldn’t spoil the nice fitt I had achieved before.
At the fitting I was a bit less excited, the straps seemed very tiny and awfully narrow now. And I was not sure about the fitt. The top edge was fine standing still but when moving it seemed a bit loose all of a sudden. On the doll it looks nicer but on the body it still had some flaws. So what I’ll do is sew some strap pieces with just a little more ‘body’ to them and exchange these with the red ones. This might provide just that little more support to keep the top edge in place.
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