Step 10 : sewing the double strap cup test

The butterfly straps being rejected it’s time to try the double strap cup. Gracefully curved strap pieces at each side of the cup. Can’t wait …With these design projects it’s a good idea to think a few steps ahead before cutting and sewing. So I pictured the proces in my mind before even getting the fabric out. And I realized It would be a problem to add a ‘blind’  piece at the armpit because this would leave the armpit in the cup itself hanging loose. It could only be done when finishing the strap and cup together with elastic trim. For a version with scalloped lace this would be fine and I want to add a lace alternative in the pattern anyway. But made with plain fabric would not be so nice this way.

The best solution for this would be dropping the upper edge to a strapless design. Back to drawing again …

cuptest4 patroon

Once the line was dropped the side part turned out to narrow, it should be approx the same as in the front. Usually this would mean making a whole new drawing but I managed to change it in the same old drawing. I did remeasure all the lines since this cheating can get a bit sloppy in accurateness.

Got all the remnants together again for another test. It’s become sort of a sport for me to use the smallest piece available, like making a puzzle. The red fabric just fitted and would give a good contrast as well.

cuptest4 knippen

During sewing the trick is to keep every piece stuffed with pins. Stretch fabrics always tend to deform due to the spandex / lycra and needs to be controlled severely. when sewing the real deal I like to use spray glue, the temporarely type. But that takes a lot of time carefully draping the fabrics together so for a test I just pin and pin and pin.

cuptest4 spelden

Once sewing the cup was done it seemed quite nice, this strong contrast and all. This was indeed more or less what I had in mind. So hopefully the cup being strapless all of a sudden wouldn’t spoil the nice fitt I had achieved before.

cuptest4 gestikt

At the fitting I was a bit less excited, the straps seemed very tiny and awfully narrow now. And I was not sure about the fitt. The top edge was fine standing still but when moving it seemed a bit loose all of a sudden. On the doll it looks nicer but on the body it still had some flaws. So what I’ll do is sew some strap pieces with just a little more ‘body’ to them and exchange these with the red ones. This might provide just that little more support to keep the top edge in place.

cuptest4 doll



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5 thoughts on “Step 10 : sewing the double strap cup test

  1. I can’t tell from the pics and write-ups, are you using stretch fabric for the cups? If so, how much stertch? 10%? 50%? 80? It seems to make a huge difference in fit in my (admittedly limited!) experience. I’d be really interested to hear more about how you choose fabrics, as that’s always hte hardest part of the process for me.


    • The band has to be from stretch fabric to fitt tight around the body but the cups certainly not. That’s why they always have lining inside. Stretchy cups will allow the breast to hang down and that’s an effect we ladies can do without.
      At this point I’m just testing design ideas and still far from making a bra which is ready to wear. So I don’t worry much about the fabrics and just use whatever remnant is at hand.


  2. It is so motivating and inspiring to see you work towards perfection despite the constant petty errors. Is it hard to constantly be redesigning or is it harder to look pass the mistakes and move on?

    Liked by 2 people

    • Thanx for your enthousiasm! Actually I love this part of designing. Just a rough basic idea and fiddling around with all those possibilities. I could have choosen a safe design but what’s the fun of that?
      By the way, I don’t consider a rejected test to be a mistake. They might even be used in another project. But for a sewing pattern ment to be used by all kinds of people there is a lot to be considered.

      Liked by 1 person

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