I always like to lay out all the parts I will have to use before sewing anything. Just to be sure it’s all there but also because it’s quite encouraging to see all the parts ready to start. First I collected everything and traced the pattern parts in one of the large sizes. Cutting the lace usually takes some time since the best results are by mirror cutting, you can’t just double the lace like plain fabric. Most manufacturers mirror the design at the opposite side of the scallops but this means you will have to cut the parts one by one. And some manufacturers don’t even bother to mirror at all …
Have you noticed in the shops only the more expensive brands do mirror the lace? That’s why it’s so expensive, parts have to be cut separately and often by hand since the designs tend to stretch uneven when layered up.
Once cut out I place the parts in an overview with the trims in place as well. I deceided to just use elastic straps for this one so I can see how that will turn out instead of the padded shoulders. Rings, underwires and boning are not yet included in the picture, I noticed their absence after I took it.
First thing were the cups to be sewn. This always involves a lot of pinning. Sometimes I use temporarely spray glue to keep the layers together during sewing but this lace is too open. The glue would be sticky at the outside too and not just in between the layers. So pinning it is!
Once sewn together I also stitch through the rounding where the underwire will be, just using a straight stitch. This way nothing can move around anymore and all the pins can be rmoved.
For the band the order of sewing turned out to be really important. Usually the elastic at the top edge is done at the end but here it needs to be done first. That’s because basically this is a strapless bra without armpit which is found only in the strap parts. Sewing the bottom edge elastic was quite a challenge, you can’t turn the elastic at the scallops without loosing them. So it means stitching the plain fabric along the picots first and skip the lace while doing so, turning the elastic to the inside and then stitch along the picots behind the scallops. And of course make a second stitching along the plain side of the elastic.
Because the elastic is black in this bra I could use black channeling for the underwires as well and didn’t have to bother finding the right blue, it even spiced up the inside of the bra. But of course that’s not really the issue here, how does it fitt?
The reshaped bra band turned out a real improvement. It brings the bust more together mid front so the cups won’t grate the arms when you move. The larger the bra the more annoying this constant scraping can be.
But I’m not so happy about the plain strap parts.They should be just a little larger to get the same balance as in the smaller size. I will have to grade them in another aligning to get it right.
Do keep in mind the doll is not the right size for these cups, it just looks nicer on a stand than laying flat on the table.
The simple black elastic straps are a good enough alternative for the more elaborate straps in the long bra. That will not be everybody’s cup of tea and now one can choose the straps they like for both designs.
Well, next will be to redraw the strap parts. Not sure yet whether I will replace them in this bra or make a new one completely. We’ll see about that later.
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