Both the cups I want to try have the significant coupe seam from the side down going upwards to the top edge. That should be the first pattern drawing. It’s a tricky seam, most of th time it will turn out a bit pointy, just like a vertical seam. Especially when the top edge has to be narrowed a bit to fitt E-F-G cups. But one never knows for sure without trying first. Just a little shift in placing the seam might make a difference. So first the seam in the under cup has to be redirected. After that in another drawing the same seam will continue in the upper cup with a gusset to narrow the top edge.
It turned out quite a challenge, I had to erase, shift and erase several times before I got a nice balance. A major problem with this always is to keep in mind the pattern later has to be graded in more sizes so even at this stage I will have to consider possible problems for that. Drawing a single size pattern or a whole nest is a very different thing!
Well, it’s ready for a first test. I’ve used my all time favorite fleece interfacing again like I did with the first designs. And used another favorite by adding seam allowances at the coupe seam and the underwire seam with 2 lead pencils taped together to provide the exact 0,75cm I need.
To get a clear view of what the design will do I deceided to make the loose strap for this test in black lining fleece. Contrast always makes design details much stronger. I was not sure yet what direction to choose for the stretch in the fabric. Not a problem for now, only for later when real stretch fabric is being used. But to get an impression I drew 2 possible lines. When sewn together it will be clearer what the effect would be.
Now it’s just a matter of sewing together. I used the fitting band again for this first quick test. Of course it’s too much high up midfront but I just ignored the part sticking out. At this point all that matters is to have a quick view of the cup itself to answer some important questions; is the coupe seam at the right spot – is the coupe seam flowing smoothly enough – is the midfront not too low That kind of things …
After trying it on a real person the fleece lining broke at the top and I had to use tape to stick it up the doll for this picture. But the result shows the same; the cup is way too pointy and even folds a little at the nipple. The way the loose strap partly covers the cup is nice though, that idea works very well I think.
To solve the problem for the pointy coupe seam I have 2 possible solutions. Transform in a slope seam or use a double seam like in the other design I want to try. I’ll start with the last one since I want to try that anyway in the second design. I’ll do that later this week because in the meantime the pile of orderswaiting to be handled has grown. Still juggling to find time for this new pattern …
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