Step 25 : following the power bar

Although the design did not work out it was not a totall waist. The outside power bar worked well and is going to stay. Instead of choosing another design from the collected pile I deceided to work from there. I tried some different shapes by simply cutting off pieces from the designs I had rejected. Just to see what it would look like.

bra2 testpowbar2

With this one I cut off the bar all the way to the end of the underwire at the side. It looked a bit odd like the bra was cut too short and someone tried to fix it by adding a piece of fabric remnant. But what’s more important, this would not bring any extra support.

bra2 testpowbar

For this one I tried to follow the straight line of the scallops. It would just go as far as halfway the armpit. It doesn’t seem to make any sense this way. Designer rule : there should always be a connection in the shape of things. I could consider making the coupe seam ending there. This would only have any logic when the upper cup would be lace again. But then the power bar would hardly be noticed while it should be the design feature of the cup.

In the end it was clear the power bar should stay the way it was. Which was a good starting point for a new design. So I just draw the bar into the pattern first and made some different coupes to go along with it.

bra2 pattern tests

Got a whole bunch of them after a while, I’m not easy to please I guess. The fleece tests were too pointy or did not bring out the power bar like I wanted. But in the end I got 2 promising patterns and worked them out with fabric for a better test.

bra2test lacecup

This design still has some resemblance to the one I rejected before. Now with just one coupe seam instead of 2. Which makes it a bit more boring but could still be nice enough. The fabric power bar is loose and without padding now. To give some support it should be wider but the non-stretch lining does the job almost as good as padding does. The top of the cup needs some adjusting but nothing major.

One problem though, the side cup needs quite wide scalloped lace which is not that easy to get. That might be a deal breaker for this one.

bra2test plaincup

This one is completely different. Quite a regular cup if it wasn’t for the power bar. I made some effort to bring in an extra pattern piece for the upper cup. This could make the seams more interesting and give an opportunity to incorporate scalloped lace at the front. I couldn’t make the lower cup more curvy without making the cup pointy again. Which leaves not that much space for exciting additional seams. I could make the part a little bigger but too much lace there would take away attention from the power bar. Seeing it like this I think it’s much nicer to just add a very narrow stripe of scallops sticking out.

This one also needs some adjusting at the top but would work well with both variations : a lace cup with plain power bar or a plain cup with lace power bar. And of course a choice between regular bra band or a lace long bra. Love it when several options are possible! I’ll make a complete bra from this (adjusted) design to be sure.

 

For an overview of all the Merckwaerdigh internet activities take a look at www.merckwaerdigh.nl

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4 thoughts on “Step 25 : following the power bar

  1. I find this so whole process fascinating. I’m sorry for your efforts that don’t work out, but it’s actually very encouraging to read. I think many non-professional bra makers have the impression that the professionals can do everything and do it perfectly every time. And I’m sure while you explain what isn’t working, we’re all learning as well. The latest versions are looking very promising.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Thanx, but don’t be sorry for me. Every effort brings out new options so it’s never really a waist of time or effort. And you are right, usually professionals in the industry take several months to develop a new design to perfection; test after test after test.
      It’s like I said before, a really new design cannot be done easily and takes time to test. Only the designs that are similar to previous ones can be developed quickly. But what’s the fun about that!

      Like

  2. So sorry your earlier vision didn’t work out. Both of the new options are interesting to me. I like the way the power bar appears to run under the cup for added support. A big thumbs up though to the last option listed here. The scalloped lace trim is really a pretty feature. Will we get to see the back band design & closure too? Thanks for sharing!

    Liked by 2 people

    • Thanx for your lovely comment, and yes, I will take pictures of the bra back as well. I have an idea to add there which can also be used for the other earlier designs (with the straps at both sides) which will be on the pattern.

      Like

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