Step 26 : a proper plunge

Well, time to make a real bra again! Just to be really sure I also made another single test cup after the adjustments were finished. One with a good contrast in colour of the fabrics, that will always show better any faults or disproportion. It’s not that much work and I’m glad I made that extra effort. Basically the cup was fine but critically as I am it was a chance to refine it even more.


Finally, time to choose some nice fabrics and trimmings. I wanted to make this one in more blending colours in the fabric and contrasting trims. Just to see how strong the design would hold with distracting details like the trimming. And I must admit it’s easier too because it always turns out to be some sort of a hassle to find all the trimming in an exactly matching colour. Well, this is what I came up with :

bra2test plat

multicolour spring flowers with matching pastel lace and contrasting red trimming. The red returns in the flower design here and there and spices up the delicate colour of the lace. The back of the bra is high up under the arm and only goes down to the closure from the point of connection with the straps. I’ve added a lace top layer from that point. When the lace is firm enough the fabric could be cut away after stitching but sometimes scalloped lace can be a bit delicate.

At the midfront the bridge between the cups has been narrowed with a centimeter at both sides, that will bring the cups closer together what is always better for deeper cups like E and up. I’ve compensated that missing centimeter at the side seam. This way both the band back designs can be used with any of the cup designs. The more options the better!

bra2test pop

When wearing the bra I did not like the lace powerbar to be loose. Probably when using padding with lace it will be better to stitch it on top of the cup itself. With every move the padding tends to peep out a little, probably because the padding is too strong for the delicate lace I used.But that’s quite easy to fix, even now the bra is already finished. I do think the power bar design is still a strong enough feature regarding these distracting red trims.

I do love the narrow lace peeping out at the top edge of the cup. It really brings out the best of the breast. The shape of the scallops will determine whether the scallops should stay within the pattern piece or maybe look better coming out a bit more. With the other tests I used the lining only under the fabric and left the lace without. This time I’ve used the lining all the way up, only leaving the scallops without. This will avoid the lace to get flabby after a while.

bra2test rug

The back is a little wider since the doll is wider at the underbust. So in real life the straps will be closer together and the rounding will not be so spread out. It is also possible to use the multi straps for this design and to get an impression how that would be I’ve used one of those plastic strap holders they made to get a sport back in a normal bra. Even with only one string of strap elastic it looks pretty already.

bra2test rugkruis

I will also grade the bra in a larger size and make a proper one of the plunge long bra with a lace cover getting lower over the bra band. And with the multi straps as well. Almost there now!


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