Step 27 : grading headaches

The whole point of sewing the oher plunge bra is to see whether the proportions of each pattern part will be the same in bigger sizes. To do so grading has to be done first. And somehow the grading process always brings headaches … Everything has to measured again and again because what seemed right in the smaller size suddenly doesn’t make sense in the bigger size. Every length should go up gradually with exact the same interval. But usually they just don’t and this means tilting some coupe lines or roundings to solve the problem.

I probably have some nerdness hidden inside me because I really like to do this stuff. Even more than sewing nice underwear. In fact I only like sewing lingerie when I know there was some difficult pattern drawing involved. Never walk the easy road …

bra2 grading


It took some time but the grading is all done now. My ruler and metal measuring tape were working overtime just as the pencil and eraser and of course my indispensable flexible curve. I have a whole bunch of these little helpers but just around the corner is a hughe shop full of paper and drawing equipment if I might run out. I really love living here!

Which means choosing fabrics again, always a joy! The first plunge was in sweet matching Summer pastels so this new lace long bra will be in Winter dark black lace with a contrasting red power bar and shoulder pads. Two sides of the design. Since the lace will be covering the shorter lycra band the colour will peep through the holes in the lace. With this contrasting choice it might be nicer to give the cups the same effect and add a layer of red lycra there as well.

bra2long knipklaar

I think the red lycra under the black lace looks really nice, adds a bit of mystery. We’ll have to see about the thickness though, there is a power bar as well at the side and maybe it will be too thick at the underwire line, 7 layers of fabric + casing … Because there will be 1. cup lining + 2. cup lycra + 3. cup lace + 4. power bar lining + 5. power bar lycra + 6. bra band lycra + 7. bra band lace. And even more because all this folds back over the band so 8. bra band lace again + 9. bra band lycra again + 10 underwire casing!

Stitching the underwire seam will be quite a challenge this way! Luckily my sewing machine has a strong engine, it’s a Pfaff with a double transporter build in. That ingenious little miracle worker has saved me many times and I’m sure it will again this time!


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