Step 29 : the plunge long bra

The long bra version of the plunge has been tested in a larger size now, it seems to be fine. This time with lace cups and a plain power bar. And using the winter colours I had choosen before. Red lycra with black lace … didn’t I promise myself a while ago never to use black for testing again? Stupid choice in these dark Autumn days. But the bra is finished now no matter and looks great in these colours. I do like the narrow plain stripe at the top edge of the cups. The best way to get this done is to first stitch the scallops of the lace on the fabric with the pins right-angled.

bra2test cupkantstikken

I used the shoulder pads again, this was a tough job when I used them in the bra with the side straps before. They have to be turned inside out to get the pads with blind seams. The thick and stiff padding doesn’t go through the narrow ends very well. So this time I wanted to see how it would look in a much more simple way; just a blind seam at one side and using picot elastic at the other. Looks just as nice and saves a lot of frustration.

The whole trick about adding the padding is to stitch just beside the padding. The pressure of the machines foot will push the padding under the needle at some spots, just enough to keep it in place but not enough to let it fold when turning the fabric. Folded padding gets way too thick and doesn’t feel very comfortable on the shoulder. After folding the lining back it needs to be pinned down carefully, again with right-angled pins. With very slippery fabrics I even stitch the loose side together before working the picot on it.

bra2 straps stikken

Pins are my best friend when sewing lingerie. And I always use them right-angled. When pinning along with the length of the seam the fabric can still move around but when pinned right-angled this will hold the fabric in place all over the part.

I did not use padding in the plain power bar, just the lining was enough support. And this way the power bar did not stand off from the cup, much better. All in all I’m pleased with this long bra version!

bra2 plungeXL

The back looks nice as well with these criss cross straps and padded shoulders. And what I like most is the possibility to exchange the backs of all the designs. It took a bit of measuring and calculating to get it that way though since the mid front of the plunge was narrowed down. But it was certainly worth while spending energy on this!

bra2 plungeXL rug



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