Decorating the Underwire Seam

This week I finally could take some time to sew me a new bra shirt for myself to wear. That always seems to be a designers faith, creating gorgeous stuff for others while ending up with testing ‘just not right’ items yourself … This time I wanted to test a decorative scalloped edge along the underwire seam. I’ve done this before and consider to use it in the next new DIY bra pattern. So this test was to see how easy or difficult it would be to explane the process to a beginner lingerie sewer. And I thought it would be nice to share it here with you as well since such a new bra pattern is not in my planning yet.

This idea will blend the underwire seam a bit instead of having a hard rounding. Depending on the choice of scalloped lace it can look kind of modest or very contrasting. Here I’ve used it with all lace cups but it can be very nice too when just using a narrow edge of scalloped lace in upper cups instead of the whole cup. A good way to make the most of remnant parts or narrow scalloped laces.

For myself I never wear just a bra but always a bra shirt which will cover my tummy, somehow this part is always a bit wind sensitive. Must be the aging of years … My black one was worn out and needed to be replaced. I’ve used my favourite MIX4 pattern for the bodice combined with the cups of MIX25 for a change. First I sew the bodice to the point where the cups would go in.


On the left you will see the scalloped edge already in place around the underwire seam, on the right the ‘blank’ underwire seam. As you might notice it is only a narrow edge around the seam, a wider edge would give a problem to make the rounding smoothly. This will also depend on the cup size, the smaller the cup the sharper the curve will be. And a sharp curve can only handle a narrow edge around it. So the larger the cup the wider this scalloped edge can be.

privhemdbeugelrandspelden       privhemdrandstik

Here you will see in detail how the scalloped edge was pinned in the photo on the left. Midfront I had already added a piece of scalloped lace which was continuing a bit under the cup. Just because that was the length of the remnant I used. There is an overlap under the cup where I started with a new piece but here the lace is at its narrowst and with black on black this will hardly be noticed. When using more contrasting lace this might be point of consideration though. The lace midfront will make it easier to pin the scallops, pinning them only around the underwire seam will be much more difficult. It will not even look that great at the midfront top I think but that’s a matter of taste.

As you can see the scallops are not curving at the side of the cups as well. The lace is going more straight to the side seam of the bodice and up to the top edge. It is possible though to just follow the curve of the rounding instead, specially with larger sizes where the curve is not so sharp. Once pinned in place the scallops can be stitched on the right side of the fabric with a stitching zigzag. Make sure the last left stitch of each zigzag will overlap the scallops, that way there will be no chance the lace will roll at the edges.

Before cutting te fabric I’ve stitched the lace along the curve with a regular zigzag at the wrong side of the fabric. This will avoid the lace to move when pinning the cups in. You see how on the photo at the right. When the lace edge is quite wide it might pleat too much to handle, you can precut a bit. Wait with precise cutting untill the lace is stitched at the curve, it might be difficult to stitch once the lace has been cut before. And really, that’s all there is to it.

privhemdpopdet        privhemdpop

It was a bit difficult to take a clear photo because it’s all in black but I hope you can still get the idea!

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2 thoughts on “Decorating the Underwire Seam

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