Any alteration for the cup starts with STEP 1 : drop or raise the cup midfront.
In other words, do you want more or do you want less cleavage in your bra? The underwire line at midfront runs in the master pattern up to exactly between the cups at nipple height. You can also drop or raise this height :
• drop the underwire line for more cleavage to at most halfway the underwire line.
• raised above the original underwire line for more coverage or for example a strapless bra.
If you are using underwires : when you alter the midfront height this will mean you need underwires in a different length! This new length might not easily be available though. Find out what kind of underwires you could buy before you finish your pattern.
DROP the midfront :
Place a new midfront point on the underwire line at most halfway the underwire line, the exact length for this is of course depending on the cup size. If you would drop the midfront more there is a good chance part of the breast might bulge out of the cup which is not really a pretty sight.
And very, very important : drop the the BAND midfront just as much!
RAISE the midfront :
You can raise the cup at midfront at most 4,5cm. Why is that?
Theoretically you could raise it more but this would not be a basic alteration. The cup wouldn’t be able to follow the breast shape any more. This would be a challenge even for the very experienced bra pattern drafters!
At nipple height the breast will be at its widest, above the nipple the breast curve will gradually bend backward again. This means you can’t just lengthen the underwire line in the same curve because above nipple height the cup will stand away from the breast. Up to a 4,5cm rise you could still follow the breast shape though and in the Merckwaerdigh e-course you can follow the step-by-step description how to do this with the right curve in the underwire line.
And again the same drill : raise the the BAND midfront just as much!
Next time we’ll get into alterations for STEP 2 : the straps of the master pattern!
In the meantime ; since 8th of June 2020 the e-course is READY and available in the Merckwaerdigh shop on the Etsy platform!
For an overview of all the Merckwaerdigh internet activities and the button to subcribe to the Merckwaerdigh Newsletter take a look at www.merckwaerdigh.nl