In the last posts I described how you can alter the vertical bra cup coupe line in the Merckwaerdigh master pattern. Not only can you shift this to a horizontal coupe line (as explaned in the last post) but into a diagonal coupe line as well. The breasts often look slightly flatter in a diagonal coupe line which makes it very suitable for larger breasts, they will seem a bit less full.
What are the CHARACTERISTICS of a DIAGONAL coupe line?
The diagonal coupe line always :
starts on the underwire line at the front and
ends in the armhole.
This means the coupe line could be totally diagonal but also just a little bit sloped!
Just as in the horizontal coupe line BALANCE in the cup parts is the key. In general :
• The lower you start the coupe line at the front the higher you end in the armhole.
• The higher you start the coupe line at the front the lower you end in the armhole.
Drafting a diagonal coupe line is simular to the way you draft the horizontal coupe line.
Again to draw the lower cup you slide the front cup and side cup of the master pattern against each other from nipple point to underwire line, creating an overlap. Then deceide where the start and end of the coupe line should be placed and draw a curved line between them which must touch the nipple point. As you might notice part of the overlap is also compensated in the front of the coupe line, just as in the horizontal coupe line.
And also drafting the upper cup is in a simular way as for the horizontal coupe line. Again you need a different setup of the master pattern front and side cup compared to the lower cup. The coupe lines now come together from the nipple point up to the straps.
Because the upper cup coupe line is less curvy than in the lower cup it usually will have a shorter length. It will be useful to add some extra length on forehand right at the start.
Next step is to trace starting point F and ending point S from the lower cup and draw a curved coupe line between them for the upper cup. Now the coupe line does not need to touch nipple point N from the master pattern, just like in the horizontal coupe line. The function of the upper cup is not so much to secure the proportions but mainly to define the shape and look of the cup.
• The more curve in the upper cup coupe line, the more pointy the cup will seem.
• The more flat the upper cup coupe line, the more natural the cup will seem.
If the end of the coupe line is very close to the armpit the cup could even look very simular to a horizontal cup with the end just under the armpit. So far the whole process has also been the same as for the horizontal coupe line. But there is one side effect you need to address to :
Adjust the armhole in the upper + lower cup.
Because part of the armhole is now located in the lower cup, when the straps are relocated that part + the coupe line ends also alter.
• Slide the upper cup + lower cup to each other just like they will be sewn lateron.
• Draw a new armhole from straps to armpit.
• Extend the coupelines a bit if needed.
Now we are almost there : next time we’ll show an overview for altering the cup master pattern and tell you how to use the template and checklists for your own designs that are included in the new Merckwaerdigh e-course!
In the meantime ; since 8th of June 2020 the e-course is READY and available in the Merckwaerdigh shop on the Etsy platform!
For an overview of all the Merckwaerdigh internet activities and the button to subcribe to the Merckwaerdigh Newsletter take a look at www.merckwaerdigh.nl